Roof Talk 101 The Best Educational Roof Blog In America: 2014

Wednesday, December 31, 2014

Roof Talk-101 With The New Year Comes A New Beginning.

The slate is wiped clean and we have an opportunity for a fresh start...a "do over." If resolutions sound "too final" call them "tips" for a better 2015.

1. Stay Positive. You can listen to the cynics and doubters and believe that success is impossible or you can trust that with faith and an optimistic attitude all things are possible.

2. Take a morning walk of gratitude. I call it a "Thank You Walk." It will create a fertile mind ready for success.

3. Make your first meal the biggest and your last meal the smallest. Eat breakfast like a king, lunch like a prince and dinner like a college kid with a maxed out charge card.

4. Zoom Focus. Each day when you wake up in the morning ask: "What are the three most important things I need to do today that will help me create the success I desire?" Then tune out all the distractions and focus on these actions.

5. Talk to yourself instead of listen to yourself. Instead of listening to your complaints, fears and doubts, talk to yourself and feed your mind with the words and encouragement you need to keep moving forward.

6. Choose faith instead of fear. Faith turns adversities and dead-ends into detours to a better outcome than you thought possible.

7. Don't chase dollars or success. Decide to make a difference and build meaningful relationships and success will find you.

8. Get more sleep. You can't replace sleep with a double latte.

9. Don't waste your precious energy on gossip, energy vampires, issues of the past, negative thoughts or things you cannot control. Instead invest your energy in your purpose, people and the positive present moment.

10. Build your life and career with the 3 greatest success strategies of all...love, serve & care.

11. Every day focus on your purpose. Remember why you do what you do. We don't get burned out because of what we do. We get burned out because we forget why we do it.

12. Remember there's no such thing as an overnight success. There's no substitute for hard work.

13. Believe that everything happens for a reason and expect good things to come out of challenging experiences.

14. Implement the No Complaining Rule. If you are complaining, you're not leading.

15. Read more books than you did in 2014.

16. Don't seek happiness. Instead decide to live with passion and purpose and happiness will find you.

17. Focus on "Get to" vs "Have to." Each day focus on what you get to do, not what you have to do. Life is a gift not an obligation.

18. Each night before you go to bed complete the following statements:

I am thankful for __________.

Today I accomplished____________.

19. Smile and laugh more. They are natural anti-depressants.

20. Enjoy the ride. You only have one ride through life so make the most of it and enjoy it.

Wednesday, December 17, 2014

Roof Talk-101 Benefits Of A Cool Roof

A cool roof is one that has been designed to reflect more sunlight and absorb less heat than a standard roof. Cool roofs can be made of a highly reflective type of paint, a sheet covering, or highly reflective tiles or shingles. Nearly any type of building can benefit from a cool roof, but consider the climate and other factors before deciding to install one.

Just as wearing light-colored clothing can help keep you cool on a sunny day, cool roofs use solar-reflective surfaces to maintain lower roof temperatures. Standard or dark roofs can reach temperatures of 150°F or more in the summer sun. A cool roof under the same conditions could stay more than 50°F cooler.

BENEFITS OF COOL ROOFS

A cool roof can benefit a building and its occupants by:

Reducing energy bills by decreasing air conditioning needs
Improving indoor comfort for spaces that are not air conditioned
Decreasing roof temperature, which may extend roof service life.

Beyond the building itself, cool roofs can also benefit the environment, especially when many buildings in a community have them. Cool roofs can:

Reduce local air temperatures (sometimes referred to as the urban heat island effect)
Lower peak electricity demand, which can help prevent power outages
Reduce power plant emissions, including carbon dioxide, sulfur dioxide, nitrous oxides, and mercury, by reducing cooling energy use in buildings.

ROOFTEC-LLC and ROOFGUARD-LLC has been installing commercial roofing systems for over 30 years. We have the solutions you are looking for if you desire a new commercial roof or need a re-roof. ROOFTEC-LLC only uses the best products and installation practices to insure you have a worry free commercial roof. For more information visit us at. www.rooftec-llc.com and we also invite you to Like Us on our RoofTec-LLC Facebook Page .

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Roof Talk-101 Picking A Cool Roof: SRI Index Is Key

Most roofing industry experts agree that a cool roof is one that exhibits a combination of high reflectivity and high emissivity. But the questions have always been how high is high and what combination of the two yields the most benefit?

One way to make a decision is to use the Solar Roof Index (SRI) to evaluate a cool roof. The U.S. Green Building Council's LEED 2.2 uses SRI as a way to evaluate a cool roof. LEED version 2.2 is the first national specification to use a relatively new measure of reporting a cool roof’s properties. LEED 2.2 sustainable sites credit 7.2 states that to receive one point, building owners should use a roof with a Solar Reflective Index (SRI) of 78 over at least 75 percent of the roof’s surface for roofs with slopes less than 2:12.

SRI is a unit developed by scientists at Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory. SRI incorporates reflectivity and emissivity properties into one, easy-to-read, standardized measure so that roof buyers won’t have to scratch their heads and try to figure out if a high reflectivity and low emissivity is better or worse than a medium reflectivity and high emissivity.

SRI is calculated with a complex formula spelled out in ASTM E 1980 and is a scale of 1 to 100 that is a measure of a roof’s combined thermal properties. It is defined so that a standard black (reflectance 0.05, emittance 0.90) is 0 and a standard white (reflectance 0.80, emittance 0.90) is 100. But some hot roofs can have negative values, and some white thermoplastics and white roof coatings have scored as high as 104 to 110.

SRI as a method for reporting cool roof data will probably take a little while to catch on. Most manufacturers still report separate emissivity and reflectivity data in their literature, but the Cool Roof Rating Council, an organization that verifies and labels cool roofing products has begun using the measure, while retaining reflectivity and emissivity measurements.

Different roofing technologies have different SRI values. Asphalt coatings for example have aluminum pigments added to asphalt cutbacks and emulsions to give coatings solar reflectance index (SRI) values of 21-30 on a scale of 0-100.

Acrylic elastometers on the other hand, a new-generation coatings, have a highly reflective surface, often with an SRI greater than 100. Most highly reflective acrylic elastomers are white, and workers can install them over existing bituminous or non-bituminous roofing. Acrylic elastomers typically are specified at 12 mils for five-year warranties and at 20 mils for 10-year warranties. Some manufacturers specify up to 40 mil applications.

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

Roof Talk-101 How to Maintain and Repair A Wood Shingle Roof

Just a reminder, keeping your gutters clear of debris and removing hanging branches near the roof will help keep your shingles in top shape.

Clean moss, lichen, and molds with a solution of water and chlorine bleach or other solvent.

But what if your wood shingle roof needs repairs?

Types of Wood Roofs

First of all, there are two basic kinds of wood roofs. Shingles are smooth. Shakes are rough-hewn and rustic. They come in varying lengths, and are typically 16, 18, or 24 inches long. Most are made from red cedar, which is durable and resists insect damage. Sometimes manufacturers use preservative-treated pine or other woods. Maintenance and repair for both types are the same.

Whatever type you choose, when you first have your roof installed be sure to keep a bundle of shingles that can be used for future repairs.

Commercially Available Treatments

If you protect your wood roof with a commercially available treatment, it will last longer. Left unprotected, a wood roof will begin to decay within ten years; but could last as long as 30 years with proper treatment.

Home improvement stores carry a variety of products for this. Each comes with its own specific directions, and it is important to follow those explicitly. You will typically get the best protection if you dip the shingles into the solution, or apply the treatment with a brush for maximum coverage.

Curled Shingles

If your wood shingle curls away from the roof, it can usually be flattened and reattached.

If the shingle is brittle (as often happens in cold weather), you must soften first. Do this by using a propane torch with a flame spreader nozzle. Use it to warm the curled edges; of course be careful not to burn them!
Once they are warm, you should be able to easily flatten the edges and reattach the shingle with asphalt roof cement. Apply roof cement generously to each corner and press back into place.
Use a brick or other heavy object to hold the shingle flat while the roof cement sets.

Repair a Cracked Shingle

It is better to repair small cracks than to replace the shingle.

To fix a crack that is smaller (under ¼ inch), first pull out loose splinters.
Now only the large pieces remain. Nail the large pieces down with galvanized roofing nails, being careful not to drive the nail heads into the shingle; that will damage the shingle surface.
Cover the crack and the nail heads with roofing cement.
For cracks wider than ¼ inch, you will need to use a sheet metal patch. Drive a piece of sheet metal under the crack of the shingle, until the top of the metal reaches past the upper edge of the crack.
Nail the shingle pieces down with galvanized roofing nails, being careful not to drive the nail heads into the shingle, which will damage the shingle surface. Cover the crack and nail heads with roofing cement.
Remove shingles that cannot be repaired
Remove pieces of broken shingle that can be chiseled out or pulled out with your fingers. When you pull, move in a down and out motion to avoid damaging other shingles.
Use a hacksaw to cut nails that held the broken shingle. Cut them even with the sheathing or wood slats. You will probably have to pry the shingle above it up enough to get all the nails. Be careful you don’t crack the good shingle.
Completely remove the broken shingle and then use the hacksaw to remove the nails that secured it, being careful of the decking underneath.
Cut a replacement shingle, making it approximately 3/8 inch narrower than the empty space. This allows the shingle to expand when it gets wet. Drive in the replacement shingle using a wood block and hammer. Nail it down and cover any exposed nail heads with roofing cement.

Thursday, November 13, 2014

Roof Talk-101 10 Top To-Dos for Fall Maintenance

Get your home and yard in top shape for winter with these essential fall maintenance tasks.

1. Take Care of Your Furnace. Schedule a professional maintenance visit for thorough inspection of switches, burners, and safety controls; the motor and blower need to be both checked and cleaned by a skilled technician. A task you can -- and should -- do yourself is changing the air filters every 1-3 months.

2. Install a Carbon Monoxide Detector. A carbon monoxide detector can be a lifesaver when you operate equipment powered by an internal combustion engine -- a generator, for example -- or fuel-burning appliance -- a furnace, range, water heater, or space heater. Fuels that produce CO when burnt include natural gas, oil, wood, coal, and more.

3. Maintain Your Ducts. Maintaining ductwork is one of the best ways to lower your fuel bills while enjoying more efficient, healthful heating this winter. Check for leaks and cracks; then use duct mastic and metallic tape to repair. Insulate ductwork. This will pay off in the good ol' summertime as well, preventing unnecessary loss of your A/C's cool air. While you're at it, clear out any mold or dirt hiding in the ductwork.

4. Check Doors and Windows. Another place where you may be losing precious heat is your doors and windows. If you can see daylight through their frames, there are cracks that need attention, pronto, with the help of caulk or weatherstripping. In an older home, consider replacing windows with energy-efficient versions. Over time, the amount you save on utilities will more than offset the cost of replacement.

5. Adjust Your Ceiling Fans. Adjust ceiling fans to rotate clockwise in the cold weather. Simply flipping a switch on the fan housing will change the rotational direction and allow the paddles to better circulate heat produced by your HVAC. The result? You'll feel much warmer for a minimal cost.

6. Clean Your Fireplace and Chimney. Check your chimney (with the help of a flashlight) for leaves, nesting animals, or other blockage, which require removal by a professional. Clean out dirt and leftover ashes from the firebox. To go greener, consider purchasing an EPA-certified insert or a clean-burning electric fireplace.

7. Shield Your Outdoor A/C Unit. Protect your air conditioning unit as it "hibernates" for the season, by means of a special A/C cover. This will shield it from the elements -- wind, rain, snow, and hail -- as well as mice, rabbits, or other pests looking for a cozy winter home.

8. Inspect Your Roof. From the vantage point of your attic, check for daylight peeping through cracks or worn spots in your roof. Then go outside and inspect the roof for "bubbles" or shingles that are missing, curling, loose, or broken. Look at the condition of the flashing too. Trim any overhanging tree branches. When you're in the market for a roof replacement, consider impact-resistant roofing materials.

9. Clear Your Gutters. Clogged gutters will overflow, potentially causing major damage to your home's foundation or roof. Remove the fall's accumulation of dead leaves, pine needles, and twigs by hand (wear sturdy work gloves) or with a trowel. Then scoop out any residue from asphalt roofing shingles. When relatively clear, flush the gutters and the downspouts with water from your garden hose. Repair gutter leaks with silicone sealer and replace damaged hangers.

10. Care for Your Yard. Rake up the remaining fallen leaves to let your lawn breathe and to promote revitalization of cool season grasses like bluegrass or fescue. Dethatch and aerate the lawn. If you haven't already done so, bring potted plants inside till spring. Wrap delicate shrubs in burlap, or build a rudimentary shelter from repurposed poles or pallets to protect them from winter storms. Empty your kiddy pool and remove water feature pumps. Turn off the water supply to outdoor faucets. Disconnect hoses and put them away indoors.

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

Roof Talk-101 L.E.A.F Winterizing Your Roof

Roofing Contractor in Columbus Ohio | Winterization

It’s that time of the year again. The blistering heat is subsiding, and trees are changing colors. You can drink apple cider, go pumpkin picking, dress up for Halloween and do all of your favorite fall activities. However, this seemingly magical time can also be a huge headache for homeowners, as they worry about how the ensuing weather changes will affect their homes. It is no secret that rain, snow and frigid weather can really take their toll on your roofing system. Luckily, you can stand up to Old Man Winter if you take the necessary steps and prepare in advance. Since it is autumn when most homeowners start to get worried, you should remember the acronym L.E.A.F. This symbolizes the four major areas of which you should pay attention to in order to protect your roofing system: Leaky gutters, Excessive debris, Attic ventilation, and Flashing. Whether you hire a professional roofing contractor or you do it yourself, you should get in the habit of inspecting your roof twice a year. This is especially true for these four important factors listed above, so that you can catch any damage early and save yourself time and money in the long run.

Let’s Begin with Leaky Gutters

One area that is important to keep a vigilant eye on, especially with winter rapidly approaching, are leaky gutters. Autumn and winter are chockfull of rain and snow; and you will absolutely need healthy, well-running gutters if you want to avoid damage to your roofing system. Gutters allow pesky precipitation to drain from your roof. One thing you can do to ensure that your gutters are up to par is remove leaves, branches or other debris that may be clogging them. In addition to clearing debris, make sure that your gutters are securely fastened. Improper installation can lead to build up and overflow, which can affect your roofing system negatively.

Free Your Roof of Excessive Debris

When you embark on spring-cleaning, you should not just focus on the interior of your home, but you should include your roofing system as well. When the weather is nice, it’s the perfect time to inspect your roof and make sure that the valleys and linings are free of twigs, branches, leaves, and other debris. Excessive debris, if ignored, can block rain and melted snow from exiting your roof, which adds an unhealthy amount of weight on top of your roof. This extra mass can lead to extensive damage, including leaks, deterioration and shingle damage.

Assess Your Attic Ventilation Efficiency

As stated above, heavy snow and ice on your roof can cause damage to your roofing system. It can even warp your trusses and rafters, as well as inflate your heating bill costs. To combat this problem and save your roofing system, it is essential to install an attic ventilation system. This technique will help your attic circulate air in and out. Improved air circulation decreases the chance of snow and ice buildup, which minimizes potential damage, as well as your heating costs.

Don’t Forget about Flashing

Finally, when inspecting your roofing system in preparation for winter, you should pay special attention to flashing. Flashing is the structure used to protect the edges of your roof. It can also be seen on roof piping, chimneys and roofing vents. Flashing is very important because it is the main barrier standing between the under part of your roof and the outdoors. Unfortunately, your roof flashing can rip, tear and loosen, thanks to strong winds and substantial rain. If your flashing is damaged in any way, water can seep into your home and ruin ceilings, insulation, walls, and electrical work. Therefore, it is important to inspect your flashing before you have a huge problem. If you find any damage on your flashing, replace or fix it as soon as possible. It will cost you a lot less than it will to repair or replace your entire roofing system, which you will have to do if you let the damage get out of control.

You Can Now Start Winterizing Your Roof

In summary, it’s very important to inspect your roof in the spring and fall if you want to make sure it is working its best to defend against the brutal winter months. Regardless of whether you do the job yourself or hire a residential or commercial roofing company, special attention should be given to four main areas – Leaky gutters, Excessive debris, Attic ventilation, and Flashing – which together make up the acronym L.E.A.F. If these four areas are taken care of in advance, chances are that you will have successfully winterized your roofing system. That should give you enough peace of mind to shake off the winter blues and enjoy all the wonderful things the winter season brings!

For more information visit us at. www.rooftec-llc.com and we also invite you to Like Us on our RoofTec-LLC Facebook Page .

Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Roof Talk-101 What to Look For When Inspecting A Commercial Roofing System

Any roof inspection should look at the roof, of course, but the roof surface is only one item that should be checked. The first thing to look at is your files. Do you have all of the paperwork you need? How about a copy of the warranty? Do you have the names and phone numbers of the companies that have been involved with the roof — previous inspectors, roofing contractors, architects, manufacturer technical services? You should have a copy of all the repair orders and the results of the repairs made. Finally, there should be a roof plan, drawn to scale, that not only shows all the equipment on the roof, but also the locations of any leaks and any repairs made.

The walls and glazing should also be checked. Too many times, leaks from wall, sealant and window failures are disguised as "roof" leaks. Look for cracks and water stains that may be symptomatic of problems in these areas. The worst offenders are pipes, conduit and other penetrations through the walls. Too often these are left unsealed, especially when they are installed as retrofits.

Once those steps have been taken, you are ready to look at the roof. The best place to start is with an overall look at the roof. Is it covered in debris, like leaves, plants and old air conditioning equipment? This is a sure sign that the roof has been neglected. Look at the surface of the roof. If there is a coating, is it intact? If there is gravel or ballast, are the rocks evenly distributed and covering the whole surface?

The surface of the roof provides protection from ultraviolet radiation from the sun, which causes most roofing materials to age and break down. It's like your skin. If you don't give yourself UV protection, your skin ages prematurely and sometimes with serious results.

You should also check the drainage system. If there are large areas of standing water that never seem to go away, it may be possible to solve the problem simply by removing the gunk from around the drain. Or you may need to snake the roof drain pipes or down spouts. Standing water can lead to premature failure of the roof as the water may leach the chemicals that keep roofs pliable out of the membrane. Worse still, if there is a puncture in an area of standing water, what should have been a minor drip becomes a major disaster as all of that standing water ends up inside the building.

Roof failures rarely start in the large expanses of field membrane. Any roof check should pay special attention to the membrane and metal at changes in plane and at penetrations through the roof. First, make sure the surfacing is intact. Look for punctures, tears and scrapes in the membrane. Check for unsealed laps both in the vertical part of the flashings and also where the flashing terminates on the field of the roof. Make sure the membrane is not drooping. This is a symptom that the flashing was improperly installed — either it wasn't fastened properly at the top, or it was not properly adhered to the wall or curb. If you see diagonal wrinkles in the flashings, you have a situation where the roof deck and the wall are moving independently. These wrinkles will end up as cracks in the flashings and ultimately as leaks.

If you have expansion joints running across your roof, include them in the inspection. Some roofing contractors don't terminate expansion joints correctly and, as a result, the expansion joints crack at the ends. Check the rubber bellows for cuts and open laps and also for "repairs" done with roofing cement or other inappropriate materials.

If penetrations such as pipes and equipment stands are waterproofed with metal or plastic pitch pans or concrete rings, check the sealer to be sure that it is not cracked and that the pan or ring is completely filled with the sealer. Check the bottom of the concrete ring to be sure the seal between the ring and the roof membrane is still sealed. Check alternate flashings such as prefabricated metals or plastic or rubber boots for cracks, holes and failed sealants.

Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Roof Talk-101 Making Your Commercial Roof Last 20 Years

Under tough economic pressures and uncertainty, it is imperative for property owners and managers to spend their monies wisely and manage their facilities assets properly. The ultimate goal should be to achieve maximum roof service life at the least possible cost. For this reason, roof maintenance — in conjunction with modern life-cycle assessment techniques — has never been more appropriate.

An “out of sight, out of mind” attitude toward roofing systems is dangerous. It’s also poor asset management. Too many building owners and managers have been burned by premature roof failure. When water leaks into a building, hard assets, corporate profits — and reputations — start taking a beating.

Unfortunately, we live in a world looking for short-term, quick fix solutions. We often compromise by taking the road of least resistance. When it comes to roofing, we frequently believe that if our roofs are not leaking, we don’t need to bother with them. However, this attitude does not reflect reality. Here are a few facts*:

• More than 80 percent of all roofs are replaced prematurely.

• The average building owner will spend more than $127,500 on roofing over the life of the building.

• The average cost of a new commercial roof is more than $42,500 (10,000 square foot average)

Repairs, maintenance and/or roof restoration costs thousands of dollars less than roof replacement.

• Roof maintenance programs are tax deductible.

• Roof maintenance programs typically cost about 1 to 3 percent per year of the estimated total replacement costs (maintenance cost depends on coverage).

• A roof maintenance program can save up to 50 percent over the life of a 30-year roof compared to replacing it every 15-20 years.

• A roof can leak for days, weeks, or months before it is noticed inside the building.

If a building owner or manager starts out with a problematic roof, the situation typically goes downhill, creating a maintenance nightmare. So let’s assume we are starting out with a reasonably good roofing installation as part of a new construction process or a complete tear-off and re-roofing project.

Our goal is to immediately — from year No. 1 — take on a preventative program to ensure maximum service life of this roof.

Maintenance is a responsibility of ownership. It is required in most roofing manufacturers’ warranties. Also, No Dollar Limit (NDL) warranties don’t cover problems related to a lack of maintenance. If water backs up in a leaf-clogged roof drain, the service call can cost as much as $300.

Most commercial roofing contractors offer maintenance services. However, to be taken seriously, these contractors should be running separate, dedicated roof maintenance divisions staffed by their most experienced craftspeople. The bare-bones components of a maintenance package should consist of the something like the following:

• Visual roof inspections — including an on-site, 50-point inspection regimen.

• Photographic, digital and/or written documentation of the roof conditions.

• Quotes for recommended work.

• Repairs for deficient conditions.

• Routine maintenance as needed.

A maintenance program can even help building owners and managers with upfront roofing expenses. For example, a typical 20-year guarantee fee is about $17 per square foot. When it is extended using a roofing manufacturer’s Guarantee Extension program, the customer can save up to 20 percent of the per-year cost of guarantee coverage. Not to mention the annual inspections that will help prevent unexpected surprises and also catch small problems before they become big-ticket expenses.

Maintenance programs are also available for existing roof systems after a thorough roof audit is conducted by the roofing contractor.

Industry studies show that a proactive maintenance program can lower the average life-cycle cost of a roof to 14 cents per square foot. A “reactive” maintenance program — where the contractor is called in only after problems are discovered — can cost up to 25 cents per square foot. Finally, these studies show that roofs with proactive maintenance programs can last 21 years, compared to only 13 years with a reactive program.

In conclusion, property owners and managers needs to adopt a proactive roof maintenance protocol to get the maximum service lives from our roofing systems, and to reduce the collateral damage caused by leaking roofs at their facilities.

ROOFTEC-LLC and ROOFGUARD-LLC has been installing commercial roofing systems for over 30 years. We have the solutions you are looking for if you desire a new commercial roof or need a re-roof. ROOFTEC-LLC only uses the best products and installation practices to insure you have a worry free commercial roof. For more information visit us at. www.rooftec-llc.com and we also invite you to Like Us on our RoofTec-LLC Facebook Page .

Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Roof Talk-101 What's So Important About Roof Flashing?

Roof Talk-101 What's So Important About Roof Flashing?Various exterior building elements, such as roofs, walls) foundations, windows, and doors, collectively form a protective "envelope" that shelters the interior of a building, protecting it from the ravages of the exterior environment. Water, among all the other possibilities, is the element that poses the greatest threat to a building. That is why so many building elements and details function either to direct water away from, or to keep water out of, buildings. A sound roof with an appropriate drainage system unquestionably constitutes the first line of defense against water penetration. But to be effective, a good roof must include items other than just the roofing material. One of them is flashing. The importance of flashing is often minimized, and its installation is sometimes ignored, especially in poor roofing installations. The purpose of this technical article is to explain flashing and clarify its indispensable role in keeping buildings watertight.

What is flashing?

Flashing is a construction detail used to seal and protects joints in a building from water penetration. The joints created by the intersection of the roof and roof mounted structures and projections, such as parapets, hatches, skylights, chimneys, vent stacks, or towers, are among the most vulnerable areas of roofing systems. They constantly expand and contract in response to changes in humidity and temperature. The greater the number of such projections, the greater the potential for serious leaks. Flashing is used at these intersections to keep rainwater from leaking into the building. It makes joints at these junctions watertight, while at the same time allowing the natural expansion and contraction of materials to continue. It operates on the principle that, in order to penetrate a joint, water must work itself upward against the force of gravity, or in the case of wind-driven rain, would have to follow a tortuous path during which the force of the wind would be dissipated.

How Flashing Works

Flashing is installed at intersecting roofs and parapets and walls. It typically consists of angled strips of corrosion- resistant metal that overlap in such a way as to discourage water entrapment. Flashing is composed of two parts-the base flashing and cap flashing (which is sometimes referred to as counter flashing).
Base Flashing is the portion of the installation attached to the roof itself. It is "L-shaped" with one leg extended underneath the roofing material at least six inches, preferably more, and the other leg extending up the abutting vertical surface.

In quality flashing installations, cylindrical roof-mounted structures, such as vent stacks, use base flashing composed of special sleeves that are an integral to the vent stack. However, since this type of flashing is expensive, a black ring of roofing compound is more often used. Roofing compound is unsightly and deforms easily with changes in temperature. Despite the expense, it is usually best to flash these structures properly with metal base flashing compatible with the rest of the roofing system.
Cap Flashing is attached to the projection or wall with which the roof intersects and overlaps with the base flashing by at least six inches, so that water cannot penetrate this vulnerable joint. In masonry buildings, the cap flashing is imbedded in the "reglet"-the groove formed by the mortar Joint in a wall or parapet. In wooden buildings, flashing is usually nailed to the underlayment and its upper edge protected by clapboards, shingles, or whatever wall sheathing is being used on the building. When flashing is installed properly, the bottom edge of the cap flashing is usually turned by about 1/2 inch to stiffen the long strip of metal against the wind.
Where cap flashing follows the slope of the roof, it is arranged in steps--with each step overlapping the one immediately below it. In slate, tile, or asphalt shingle roofs, the base flashing may also be woven into the courses of the roof sheathing in order to make a more effective watertight joint.
The base and cap flashings are, or should be, independent of each other to allow for differential movement between the wall and roof structures. However, due to incorrect installation or damage from ice or vandalism, they occasionally bind. If openings or bends in the joints develop between the base and cap flashings, the joints will not move properly. The joints should be kept flexible, but tight.

Saddles or Crickets

Flashing at tall structures mounted on pitched roofs, such as chimneys, should employ a "cricket" or a "saddle." A cricket is a ridge installed between the roof slope and the protruding structure that deflects the flow of water around the protruding structure and keeps snow and dirt from collecting. If the cricket is being used in a small area, such as against a chimney, it is usually treated as a modified form of base flashing, extending under the adjacent roof sheathing in the same manner as normal base flashing, and turned up against the vertical surface and counter flashed. If a cricket is abutting a large vertical surface, such as the wall of a tower, and is exposed to view, it is usually treated as part of the roof structure and sheathed in the same manner as the roof.

Valleys

Valleys, which occur where different roof slopes intersect, are problem spots because the geometry of roof intersections often creates low spots, particularly at the eaves. Water can pond and ice can dam at these low spots, get underneath the adjacent roofing material, and cause severe damage. Most valleys are lined with a heavy gauge, corrosion- resistant metal, forming a type of flashing. This lining may or may not be visible depending on the type of roofing material used and the detailing of the roof intersections. If valley linings are not extended far enough beneath the adjacent roofing materials, leaks may occur when ice dams back up the valleys in the winter. This condition requires the eventual replacement of the valley lining.
"Open valleys" are flashed by laying strips of sheet metal in the valley angle and lapping the adjacent roofing material over it. The width of the valley increases as it approaches the bottom to accommodate the increased flow of water.
"Closed valleys" are only possible with slate, tile, or asphalt shingle roofs. They are far less common than open valleys, and the flashing required is far more complex. In closed valleys, the roof sheathing is brought tight to the valley line, and small pieces of flashing are arranged under each slate or tile. This flashing is invisible, but still absolutely essential to keep the joint watertight. Instead of individual pieces of flashing, long, overlapping strips of flashing are occasionally used in closed valleys. However, this mode of flashing tends to be less effective than using smaller, individual pieces of flashing for each course of slate or tile.

Materials

Flashing may be either concealed or exposed. Flashing concealed within the construction of the building may be of either sheet metal or a waterproof membrane. Exposed flashing typically consists of pieces of sheet metal or impervious, flexible membrane material. Metal exposed flashing is usually of the following types: aluminum, copper, galvanized steel (painted), stainless steel, lead, terne-plate, or zinc alloy. Roofing felts are also used occasionally for flashings in certain types of roofs, such as asphalt shingle roofs or flat, built-up roofs.
The choice of the appropriate material to use for flashing depends on several criteria. What is the most cost-effective material in a given situation? What is the most durable? Will the material being considered be visible to the observer? Is it historically appropriate to the building and the type of roof? Are the materials used for the flashing chemically compatible with the materials they will come in contact with? Copper, for instance, is the most traditional material used for flashing. However, it cannot be used with roofs composed of dissimilar metals due to "galvanic action," which sets up a chemical reaction between the copper and the iron in the roof sheathing. By the same token, it cannot be nailed to the roof deck or sheathing with iron nails.
Exposed metal flashing affects the appearance of a building; its color, texture, and pattern should be considered. It should be durable, weather-resistant, and maintenance-free. It must not stain or be stained by adjacent materials or react chemically with them. Expansion joints should be provided to prevent deformation.
Copper is the most popular material used for flashing. It is easily worked and shaped, and adjusts itself to temperature stresses. It requires no painting or other treatment, although it occasionally is painted to hasten the development of a natural green patina. Generally it is considered extremely durable. However, copper is susceptible to deterioration by "acid rain" and therefore deteriorates more rapidly these days than in the past. Coating copper with lead enhances its resistance to deterioration.
Terne-plate (often referred to as "tin" although this is technically inaccurate) is also common. Terne-plate is composed of a base metal of iron or steel, which is coated with a mixture of lead and tin. Terne-plate has traditionally been painted and requires regular painting in order to prevent corrosion.
Zinc, although more rarely used for flashing in this country, is extremely durable and generally requires little maintenance. As zinc oxidizes, it forms a protective coating, dark grey in color that is extremely resistant to weathering.
Roofing felts are strips of felt impregnated with roofing compound. Although appropriate for certain types of built-up roofing, particularly on flat roofs, this is probably the least desirable material to use for flashing. Roofing compound expands and contracts in response to changes in temperature and deforms easily, often rendering the flashing useless within a year or two. Although usually cheaper to install initially than metal flashing, it constantly has to be renewed in order to remain effective, and thus any initial savings are usually nullified by the subsequent cost of constant replacement. In addition, roofing felts are not usually appropriate for use on historic buildings with visible roofs, particularly slate, tile, or standing seam metal roofs.

Flashing Repairs

Failure of the flashing system is usually a major cause of roof deterioration. Flashing should be carefully inspected for failure caused either by poor workmanship, thermal stress, or metal deterioration (both of the flashing material itself and of the fasteners). With many roofing materials, the replacement of flashing on an existing roof is a major operation--one that may require taking up large sections of the roof surface. Therefore the installation of top quality flashing material on a new or replaced roof should be a primary consideration. Remember, some roofing and flashing materials are not compatible.
When repairing any metal flashing, avoid the temptation to use roofing compound (black "goop") to stop leaks. This often-used treatment is not a long-term repair and usually causes more damage to the basic material. Roofing compound becomes brittle and inflexible within one year of exposure to the weather, and whatever limited effectiveness it may have quickly disappears. More importantly the chemical interaction between the compound and the metal often accelerates deterioration and causes extensive corrosion. Coating valleys with roofing compound should also be avoided because roofing compound hides the condition of the valley lining and creates irregular surfaces that inhibit good drainage.
Holes in copper flashing are best repaired with a soldered patch. Aluminum flashing is difficult to solder, so holes have to be covered by a "cold" patching methods. A number of commercial sealing products used for patching metal gutters, such as gutter tape, can be used for a "cold" patch. You can also make a temporary patch with sheet metal and flashing cement. Clean the metal with a wire brush or steel wool. Cut a sheet metal patch that overlaps the hole at least three inches on all sides. Coat the pack of the patch with flashing cement. Press the patch firmly into place--just hard enough so that the cement doesn't ooze onto the roof. Paint the patch to match the rest of the flashing. These patches are strictly temporary and should be inspected at least twice a year to make sure they are still holding. If cap flashing comes loose from the reglet, re-wedging and sealing the reglet should repair it. The reglet can be filled with mortar (preferred) or a high-quality sealant, such as urethane caulk.

Conclusion

Any roofing system should be recognized as a membrane that is designed to be self-sustaining, but that can be easily damaged by intrusions such as pedestrian traffic or fallen tree branches. Generally damage from water or ice is less likely on a roof that has good flashing on the outside.

ROOFTEC-LLC and ROOFGUARD-LLC has been installing commercial roofing systems for over 30 years. We have the solutions you are looking for if you desire a new commercial roof or need a re-roof. ROOFTEC-LLC only uses the best products and installation practices to insure you have a worry free commercial roof. For more information visit us at. www.rooftec-llc.com and we also invite you to Like Us on our RoofTec-LLC Facebook Page .

Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Roof Talk-101 Solar Roof Shingles vs Solar Panels

		SOLAR PANELS
	vs
1. Solar roof shingles didn’t come into use until recently. One of the first solar shingles came into use in 2011 in the State of Colorado. The shingles were produced by Dow and are one of the most popular solar shingles on the market.	vs	1. Solar panels have been in use for much longer than solar roof shingles and in fact were primarily used first in space for satellites.
2. Solar shingles are installed much like a regular asphalt shingle. Solar shingles actually replace the asphalt shingles in the area they are placed. This means that on a re-roof project less asphalt shingles need to be purchased and installed because the solar shingles double as energy producers and roofing shingles.	vs	2. Solar panels on roofs have to be mounted above the shingles. This means that additional installation takes place after the protective shingle layer is installed. Installing solar panels takes longer and is more technical.
3. As of 2013, there are mainly two manufacturers or solar shingles products. The most well known is Dow’s Powerhouse solar shingles and followed closely behind is CertainTeed’s Apollo solar shingles.	vs	3. There are many solar panel manufacturers and companies that sell solar panels. The two main companies are Suntech (a china based company) and First Solar (a U.S. based company).
4. Solar shingles have a quicker installation time. In fact, in most instances it is almost 2/3 faster to install solar shingles onto a new roof than solar panels.	vs	4. Solar panels take longer to install onto a shingle roof.
5. One of the main differences that consumers are most aware of when it comes to solar shingles is how they look. Solar shingles are much more aesthetically appealing because they are flat like a shingle and are not bulky and too noticeable.	vs	5. Solar panels are big and hard not to notice. This is one of the major drawbacks that many homeowners admit is something they don’t like about solar panels.
6. Solar shingles used to be much less efficient when compared to solar panels. In fact, before 2008 solar shingles or a.k.a thin-film solar cells barely peaked above 10% conversion efficiency. But in 2008 there was a breakthrough with (CIGS) copper indium gallium diselenide that allowed the thin-film solar cells to reach a conversion efficiency of 19.9% which was a new world record for this type of solar cell.	vs	6. Before 2008 the silicone cells used for solar panels far outperformed the thin-film solar cells. Silicone solar cells have been known to reach 20.3% conversion efficiency making them the obvious choice for solar power for many years. Now, however, the thin-film solar cells conversion rates are almost identical making solar panels not as desirable as before.
7. Solar shingles can be installed on various types of roofs. Although the Dow Powerhouse solar shingle is primarily designed for fiberglass shingles.	vs	7. Solar panels have been installed on all types of roofs and in fact are very adaptable in where they can be installed. Solar panels are used for street signs, traffic lights, cars, houses, commercial buildings, etc.

Solar Roof Shingles vs Solar Panels

Solar roof shingles and solar panels have many similarities but are also very distinguishable. Solar shingles and solar panels basically use the same technology and perform the same tasks. Their main differences and similarities are portrayed in their individual names. Solar roof shingles are in fact a shingle and solar panels are in fact a panel that must be mounted on the roof.

ROOFGUARD-LLC has been installing commercial roofing systems for over 30 years. We have the solutions you are looking for if you desire a new commercial roof or need a re-roof. ROOFTEC-LLC only uses the best products and installation practices to insure you have a worry free commercial roof. For more information visit us at. www.rooftec-llc.com and we also invite you to Like Us on our RoofTec-LLC Facebook Page .