Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Roof Talk-101 What to Look For When Inspecting A Commercial Roofing System

Roof Talk-101  What to Look For When Inspecting A Commercial Roofing System

Any roof inspection should look at the roof, of course, but the roof surface is only one item that should be checked. The first thing to look at is your files. Do you have all of the paperwork you need? How about a copy of the warranty? Do you have the names and phone numbers of the companies that have been involved with the roof — previous inspectors, roofing contractors, architects, manufacturer technical services? You should have a copy of all the repair orders and the results of the repairs made. Finally, there should be a roof plan, drawn to scale, that not only shows all the equipment on the roof, but also the locations of any leaks and any repairs made.
The walls and glazing should also be checked. Too many times, leaks from wall, sealant and window failures are disguised as "roof" leaks. Look for cracks and water stains that may be symptomatic of problems in these areas. The worst offenders are pipes, conduit and other penetrations through the walls. Too often these are left unsealed, especially when they are installed as retrofits.
Once those steps have been taken, you are ready to look at the roof. The best place to start is with an overall look at the roof. Is it covered in debris, like leaves, plants and old air conditioning equipment? This is a sure sign that the roof has been neglected. Look at the surface of the roof. If there is a coating, is it intact? If there is gravel or ballast, are the rocks evenly distributed and covering the whole surface?
The surface of the roof provides protection from ultraviolet radiation from the sun, which causes most roofing materials to age and break down. It's like your skin. If you don't give yourself UV protection, your skin ages prematurely and sometimes with serious results.
You should also check the drainage system. If there are large areas of standing water that never seem to go away, it may be possible to solve the problem simply by removing the gunk from around the drain. Or you may need to snake the roof drain pipes or down spouts. Standing water can lead to premature failure of the roof as the water may leach the chemicals that keep roofs pliable out of the membrane. Worse still, if there is a puncture in an area of standing water, what should have been a minor drip becomes a major disaster as all of that standing water ends up inside the building.
Roof failures rarely start in the large expanses of field membrane. Any roof check should pay special attention to the membrane and metal at changes in plane and at penetrations through the roof. First, make sure the surfacing is intact. Look for punctures, tears and scrapes in the membrane. Check for unsealed laps both in the vertical part of the flashings and also where the flashing terminates on the field of the roof. Make sure the membrane is not drooping. This is a symptom that the flashing was improperly installed — either it wasn't fastened properly at the top, or it was not properly adhered to the wall or curb. If you see diagonal wrinkles in the flashings, you have a situation where the roof deck and the wall are moving independently. These wrinkles will end up as cracks in the flashings and ultimately as leaks.
If you have expansion joints running across your roof, include them in the inspection. Some roofing contractors don't terminate expansion joints correctly and, as a result, the expansion joints crack at the ends. Check the rubber bellows for cuts and open laps and also for "repairs" done with roofing cement or other inappropriate materials.

If penetrations such as pipes and equipment stands are waterproofed with metal or plastic pitch pans or concrete rings, check the sealer to be sure that it is not cracked and that the pan or ring is completely filled with the sealer. Check the bottom of the concrete ring to be sure the seal between the ring and the roof membrane is still sealed. Check alternate flashings such as prefabricated metals or plastic or rubber boots for cracks, holes and failed sealants.
ROOFTEC-LLC and ROOFGUARD-LLC has been installing commercial roofing systems for over 30 years. We have the solutions you are looking for if you desire a new commercial roof or need a re-roof. ROOFTEC-LLC only uses the best products and installation practices to insure you have a worry free commercial roof. For more information visit us at. www.rooftec-llc.com and we also invite you to Like Us on our RoofTec-LLC Facebook Page .

Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Roof Talk-101 Making Your Commercial Roof Last 20 Years



Roof Talk-101  Making Your Commercial Roof Last 20 Years


Under tough economic pressures and uncertainty, it is imperative for property owners and managers to spend their monies wisely and manage their facilities assets properly. The ultimate goal should be to achieve maximum roof service life at the least possible cost. For this reason, roof maintenance — in conjunction with modern life-cycle assessment techniques — has never been more appropriate.
An “out of sight, out of mind” attitude toward roofing systems is dangerous. It’s also poor asset management. Too many building owners and managers have been burned by premature roof failure. When water leaks into a building, hard assets, corporate profits — and reputations — start taking a beating.

Unfortunately, we live in a world looking for short-term, quick fix solutions. We often compromise by taking the road of least resistance. When it comes to roofing, we frequently believe that if our roofs are not leaking, we don’t need to bother with them. However, this attitude does not reflect reality. Here are a few facts*:


• More than 80 percent of all roofs are replaced prematurely.
• The average building owner will spend more than $127,500 on roofing over the life of the building.
• The average cost of a new commercial roof is more than $42,500 (10,000 square foot average)
Repairs, maintenance and/or roof restoration costs thousands of dollars less than roof replacement.
• Roof maintenance programs are tax deductible.
• Roof maintenance programs typically cost about 1 to 3 percent per year of the estimated total replacement costs (maintenance cost depends on coverage).
• A roof maintenance program can save up to 50 percent over the life of a 30-year roof compared to replacing it every 15-20 years.
• A roof can leak for days, weeks, or months before it is noticed inside the building.

If a building owner or manager starts out with a problematic roof, the situation typically goes downhill, creating a maintenance nightmare. So let’s assume we are starting out with a reasonably good roofing installation as part of a new construction process or a complete tear-off and re-roofing project.
Our goal is to immediately — from year No. 1 — take on a preventative program to ensure maximum service life of this roof.

Maintenance is a responsibility of ownership. It is required in most roofing manufacturers’ warranties. Also, No Dollar Limit (NDL) warranties don’t cover problems related to a lack of maintenance. If water backs up in a leaf-clogged roof drain, the service call can cost as much as $300.
Most commercial roofing contractors offer maintenance services. However, to be taken seriously, these contractors should be running separate, dedicated roof maintenance divisions staffed by their most experienced craftspeople. The bare-bones components of a maintenance package should consist of the something like the following:

• Visual roof inspections — including an on-site, 50-point inspection regimen.
• Photographic, digital and/or written documentation of the roof conditions.
• Quotes for recommended work.
• Repairs for deficient conditions.
• Routine maintenance as needed.

A maintenance program can even help building owners and managers with upfront roofing expenses. For example, a typical 20-year guarantee fee is about $17 per square foot. When it is extended using a roofing manufacturer’s Guarantee Extension program, the customer can save up to 20 percent of the per-year cost of guarantee coverage. Not to mention the annual inspections that will help prevent unexpected surprises and also catch small problems before they become big-ticket expenses.
Maintenance programs are also available for existing roof systems after a thorough roof audit is conducted by the roofing contractor.

Industry studies show that a proactive maintenance program can lower the average life-cycle cost of a roof to 14 cents per square foot. A “reactive” maintenance program — where the contractor is called in only after problems are discovered — can cost up to 25 cents per square foot. Finally, these studies show that roofs with proactive maintenance programs can last 21 years, compared to only 13 years with a reactive program.

In conclusion, property owners and managers needs to adopt a proactive roof maintenance protocol to get the maximum service lives from our roofing systems, and to reduce the collateral damage caused by leaking roofs at their facilities.

ROOFTEC-LLC and ROOFGUARD-LLC has been installing commercial roofing systems for over 30 years. We have the solutions you are looking for if you desire a new commercial roof or need a re-roof. ROOFTEC-LLC only uses the best products and installation practices to insure you have a worry free commercial roof. For more information visit us at. www.rooftec-llc.com and we also invite you to Like Us on our RoofTec-LLC Facebook Page .

Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Roof Talk-101 What's So Important About Roof Flashing?

Roof Talk-101  What's So Important About Roof Flashing?Various exterior building elements, such as roofs, walls) foundations, windows, and doors, collectively form a protective "envelope" that shelters the interior of a building, protecting it from the ravages of the exterior environment. Water, among all the other possibilities, is the element that poses the greatest threat to a building. That is why so many building elements and details function either to direct water away from, or to keep water out of, buildings. A sound roof with an appropriate drainage system unquestionably constitutes the first line of defense against water penetration. But to be effective, a good roof must include items other than just the roofing material. One of them is flashing. The importance of flashing is often minimized, and its installation is sometimes ignored, especially in poor roofing installations. The purpose of this technical article is to explain flashing and clarify its indispensable role in keeping buildings watertight.

What is flashing?


Flashing is a construction detail used to seal and protects joints in a building from water penetration. The joints created by the intersection of the roof and roof mounted structures and projections, such as parapets, hatches, skylights, chimneys, vent stacks, or towers, are among the most vulnerable areas of roofing systems. They constantly expand and contract in response to changes in humidity and temperature. The greater the number of such projections, the greater the potential for serious leaks. Flashing is used at these intersections to keep rainwater from leaking into the building. It makes joints at these junctions watertight, while at the same time allowing the natural expansion and contraction of materials to continue. It operates on the principle that, in order to penetrate a joint, water must work itself upward against the force of gravity, or in the case of wind-driven rain, would have to follow a tortuous path during which the force of the wind would be dissipated.

How Flashing Works


Flashing is installed at intersecting roofs and parapets and walls. It typically consists of angled strips of corrosion- resistant metal that overlap in such a way as to discourage water entrapment. Flashing is composed of two parts-the base flashing and cap flashing (which is sometimes referred to as counter flashing).
Base Flashing is the portion of the installation attached to the roof itself. It is "L-shaped" with one leg extended underneath the roofing material at least six inches, preferably more, and the other leg extending up the abutting vertical surface.

In quality flashing installations, cylindrical roof-mounted structures, such as vent stacks, use base flashing composed of special sleeves that are an integral to the vent stack. However, since this type of flashing is expensive, a black ring of roofing compound is more often used. Roofing compound is unsightly and deforms easily with changes in temperature. Despite the expense, it is usually best to flash these structures properly with metal base flashing compatible with the rest of the roofing system.
Cap Flashing is attached to the projection or wall with which the roof intersects and overlaps with the base flashing by at least six inches, so that water cannot penetrate this vulnerable joint. In masonry buildings, the cap flashing is imbedded in the "reglet"-the groove formed by the mortar Joint in a wall or parapet. In wooden buildings, flashing is usually nailed to the underlayment and its upper edge protected by clapboards, shingles, or whatever wall sheathing is being used on the building. When flashing is installed properly, the bottom edge of the cap flashing is usually turned by about 1/2 inch to stiffen the long strip of metal against the wind.
Where cap flashing follows the slope of the roof, it is arranged in steps--with each step overlapping the one immediately below it. In slate, tile, or asphalt shingle roofs, the base flashing may also be woven into the courses of the roof sheathing in order to make a more effective watertight joint.
The base and cap flashings are, or should be, independent of each other to allow for differential movement between the wall and roof structures. However, due to incorrect installation or damage from ice or vandalism, they occasionally bind. If openings or bends in the joints develop between the base and cap flashings, the joints will not move properly. The joints should be kept flexible, but tight.


Saddles or Crickets


Flashing at tall structures mounted on pitched roofs, such as chimneys, should employ a "cricket" or a "saddle." A cricket is a ridge installed between the roof slope and the protruding structure that deflects the flow of water around the protruding structure and keeps snow and dirt from collecting. If the cricket is being used in a small area, such as against a chimney, it is usually treated as a modified form of base flashing, extending under the adjacent roof sheathing in the same manner as normal base flashing, and turned up against the vertical surface and counter flashed. If a cricket is abutting a large vertical surface, such as the wall of a tower, and is exposed to view, it is usually treated as part of the roof structure and sheathed in the same manner as the roof.

Valleys


Valleys, which occur where different roof slopes intersect, are problem spots because the geometry of roof intersections often creates low spots, particularly at the eaves. Water can pond and ice can dam at these low spots, get underneath the adjacent roofing material, and cause severe damage. Most valleys are lined with a heavy gauge, corrosion- resistant metal, forming a type of flashing. This lining may or may not be visible depending on the type of roofing material used and the detailing of the roof intersections. If valley linings are not extended far enough beneath the adjacent roofing materials, leaks may occur when ice dams back up the valleys in the winter. This condition requires the eventual replacement of the valley lining.
"Open valleys" are flashed by laying strips of sheet metal in the valley angle and lapping the adjacent roofing material over it. The width of the valley increases as it approaches the bottom to accommodate the increased flow of water.
"Closed valleys" are only possible with slate, tile, or asphalt shingle roofs. They are far less common than open valleys, and the flashing required is far more complex. In closed valleys, the roof sheathing is brought tight to the valley line, and small pieces of flashing are arranged under each slate or tile. This flashing is invisible, but still absolutely essential to keep the joint watertight. Instead of individual pieces of flashing, long, overlapping strips of flashing are occasionally used in closed valleys. However, this mode of flashing tends to be less effective than using smaller, individual pieces of flashing for each course of slate or tile.

Materials


Flashing may be either concealed or exposed. Flashing concealed within the construction of the building may be of either sheet metal or a waterproof membrane. Exposed flashing typically consists of pieces of sheet metal or impervious, flexible membrane material. Metal exposed flashing is usually of the following types: aluminum, copper, galvanized steel (painted), stainless steel, lead, terne-plate, or zinc alloy. Roofing felts are also used occasionally for flashings in certain types of roofs, such as asphalt shingle roofs or flat, built-up roofs.
The choice of the appropriate material to use for flashing depends on several criteria. What is the most cost-effective material in a given situation? What is the most durable? Will the material being considered be visible to the observer? Is it historically appropriate to the building and the type of roof? Are the materials used for the flashing chemically compatible with the materials they will come in contact with? Copper, for instance, is the most traditional material used for flashing. However, it cannot be used with roofs composed of dissimilar metals due to "galvanic action," which sets up a chemical reaction between the copper and the iron in the roof sheathing. By the same token, it cannot be nailed to the roof deck or sheathing with iron nails.
Exposed metal flashing affects the appearance of a building; its color, texture, and pattern should be considered. It should be durable, weather-resistant, and maintenance-free. It must not stain or be stained by adjacent materials or react chemically with them. Expansion joints should be provided to prevent deformation.
Copper is the most popular material used for flashing. It is easily worked and shaped, and adjusts itself to temperature stresses. It requires no painting or other treatment, although it occasionally is painted to hasten the development of a natural green patina. Generally it is considered extremely durable. However, copper is susceptible to deterioration by "acid rain" and therefore deteriorates more rapidly these days than in the past. Coating copper with lead enhances its resistance to deterioration.
Terne-plate (often referred to as "tin" although this is technically inaccurate) is also common. Terne-plate is composed of a base metal of iron or steel, which is coated with a mixture of lead and tin. Terne-plate has traditionally been painted and requires regular painting in order to prevent corrosion.
Zinc, although more rarely used for flashing in this country, is extremely durable and generally requires little maintenance. As zinc oxidizes, it forms a protective coating, dark grey in color that is extremely resistant to weathering.
Roofing felts are strips of felt impregnated with roofing compound. Although appropriate for certain types of built-up roofing, particularly on flat roofs, this is probably the least desirable material to use for flashing. Roofing compound expands and contracts in response to changes in temperature and deforms easily, often rendering the flashing useless within a year or two. Although usually cheaper to install initially than metal flashing, it constantly has to be renewed in order to remain effective, and thus any initial savings are usually nullified by the subsequent cost of constant replacement. In addition, roofing felts are not usually appropriate for use on historic buildings with visible roofs, particularly slate, tile, or standing seam metal roofs.

Flashing Repairs


Failure of the flashing system is usually a major cause of roof deterioration. Flashing should be carefully inspected for failure caused either by poor workmanship, thermal stress, or metal deterioration (both of the flashing material itself and of the fasteners). With many roofing materials, the replacement of flashing on an existing roof is a major operation--one that may require taking up large sections of the roof surface. Therefore the installation of top quality flashing material on a new or replaced roof should be a primary consideration. Remember, some roofing and flashing materials are not compatible.
When repairing any metal flashing, avoid the temptation to use roofing compound (black "goop") to stop leaks. This often-used treatment is not a long-term repair and usually causes more damage to the basic material. Roofing compound becomes brittle and inflexible within one year of exposure to the weather, and whatever limited effectiveness it may have quickly disappears. More importantly the chemical interaction between the compound and the metal often accelerates deterioration and causes extensive corrosion. Coating valleys with roofing compound should also be avoided because roofing compound hides the condition of the valley lining and creates irregular surfaces that inhibit good drainage.
Holes in copper flashing are best repaired with a soldered patch. Aluminum flashing is difficult to solder, so holes have to be covered by a "cold" patching methods. A number of commercial sealing products used for patching metal gutters, such as gutter tape, can be used for a "cold" patch. You can also make a temporary patch with sheet metal and flashing cement. Clean the metal with a wire brush or steel wool. Cut a sheet metal patch that overlaps the hole at least three inches on all sides. Coat the pack of the patch with flashing cement. Press the patch firmly into place--just hard enough so that the cement doesn't ooze onto the roof. Paint the patch to match the rest of the flashing. These patches are strictly temporary and should be inspected at least twice a year to make sure they are still holding. If cap flashing comes loose from the reglet, re-wedging and sealing the reglet should repair it. The reglet can be filled with mortar (preferred) or a high-quality sealant, such as urethane caulk.

Conclusion


Any roofing system should be recognized as a membrane that is designed to be self-sustaining, but that can be easily damaged by intrusions such as pedestrian traffic or fallen tree branches. Generally damage from water or ice is less likely on a roof that has good flashing on the outside.


ROOFTEC-LLC and ROOFGUARD-LLC has been installing commercial roofing systems for over 30 years. We have the solutions you are looking for if you desire a new commercial roof or need a re-roof. ROOFTEC-LLC only uses the best products and installation practices to insure you have a worry free commercial roof. For more information visit us at. www.rooftec-llc.com and we also invite you to Like Us on our RoofTec-LLC Facebook Page .

Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Roof Talk-101 Solar Roof Shingles vs Solar Panels


SOLAR PANELS
vssolar-roof-shingles-vs-solar-panels
1. Solar roof shingles didn’t come into use until recently. One of the first solar shingles came into use in 2011 in the State of Colorado. The shingles were produced by Dow and are one of the most popular solar shingles on the market.vs1. Solar panels have been in use for much longer than solar roof shingles and in fact were primarily used first in space for satellites.
2. Solar shingles are installed much like a regular asphalt shingle. Solar shingles actually replace the asphalt shingles in the area they are placed. This means that on a re-roof project less asphalt shingles need to be purchased and installed because the solar shingles double as energy producers and roofing shingles.vs2. Solar panels on roofs have to be mounted above the shingles. This means that additional installation takes place after the protective shingle layer is installed. Installing solar panels takes longer and is more technical.
3. As of 2013, there are mainly two manufacturers or solar shingles products. The most well known is Dow’s Powerhouse solar shingles and followed closely behind is CertainTeed’s Apollo solar shingles.vs3. There are many solar panel manufacturers and companies that sell solar panels. The two main companies are Suntech (a china based company) and First Solar (a U.S. based company).
4. Solar shingles have a quicker installation time. In fact, in most instances it is almost 2/3 faster to install solar shingles onto a new roof than solar panels.vs4. Solar panels take longer to install onto a shingle roof.
5. One of the main differences that consumers are most aware of when it comes to solar shingles is how they look. Solar shingles are much more aesthetically appealing because they are flat like a shingle and are not bulky and too noticeable.vs5. Solar panels are big and hard not to notice. This is one of the major drawbacks that many homeowners admit is something they don’t like about solar panels.
6. Solar shingles used to be much less efficient when compared to solar panels. In fact, before 2008 solar shingles or a.k.a thin-film solar cells barely peaked above 10% conversion efficiency. But in 2008 there was a breakthrough with (CIGS) copper indium gallium diselenide that allowed the thin-film solar cells to reach a conversion efficiency of 19.9% which was a new world record for this type of solar cell.vs6. Before 2008 the silicone cells used for solar panels far outperformed the thin-film solar cells. Silicone solar cells have been known to reach 20.3% conversion efficiency making them the obvious choice for solar power for many years. Now, however, the thin-film solar cells conversion rates are almost identical making solar panels not as desirable as before.
7. Solar shingles can be installed on various types of roofs. Although the Dow Powerhouse solar shingle is primarily designed for fiberglass shingles.vs7. Solar panels have been installed on all types of roofs and in fact are very adaptable in where they can be installed. Solar panels are used for street signs, traffic lights, cars, houses, commercial buildings, etc.

Solar Roof Shingles vs Solar Panels

Solar roof shingles and solar panels have many similarities but are also very distinguishable. Solar shingles and solar panels basically use the same technology and perform the same tasks. Their main differences and similarities are portrayed in their individual names. Solar roof shingles are in fact a shingle and solar panels are in fact a panel that must be mounted on the roof.
ROOFGUARD-LLC has been installing commercial roofing systems for over 30 years. We have the solutions you are looking for if you desire a new commercial roof or need a re-roof. ROOFTEC-LLC only uses the best products and installation practices to insure you have a worry free commercial roof. For more information visit us at. www.rooftec-llc.com and we also invite you to Like Us on our RoofTec-LLC Facebook Page .